The Cleanest Line

Back to Patagonia - Part 3

by Crystal Thornburg-Homcy

I made my way through the Pumalín Park area in Patagonia. Fjord Quintupeu was my next destination along with fellow surfer Jamie Sterling, Sol Raiz Organics, and filmmaker Jack McCoy. We paddled our kayaks into the wind with the sun warming our faces while refreshing splashes of freezing water hit our faces. We had a day of paddling, passing by waterfalls, isolated ranches, salmon farms, and seal colonies. When we finally made our way to the entry of the Fjord Quintupeu, the sun was starting to slip behind tall peaks that were blanketed with deep emerald forests, revealing heaven-high waterfalls.

[Above: Crystal Thornburg Homcy+Chile from The Wave Journal. Video: Jack McCoy & Erik Derman]

We navigated through the fish farm to get to our resting point at the base of a waterfall in the Quintupeu Fjord. The crew was ready to warm our bones as the temperature was dropping fast. Our escort boat was far behind back at the port, hours away with the warm gear. We attempted to stay warm by gathering wood, putting our girl and boy scouts skills to work. We finally got a flame going on the soaked logs. As we began to warm up, we passed the time waiting for our boat by doing yoga on the beach, and keeping our fire alive. The clouds began to seep into the Fjord, and the darkness was setting in. Our boat was finally spotted on the horizon. This time, we set up camp under the stars with the rumbling sound of a waterfall instead of the “Wild Bull.”

What a Mess – Remembering a World before Plastic Pollution

by Gerry Lopez

I spent a lot of time surfing a spot in Indonesia called G-Land. Remotely located on the edge of the Alas Purwo National Park, on the southeastern tip of Java, it was, relatively speaking, far from civilization. Actually, as the Indonesian sea eagle flies, it was only about 15 kilometers from the nearest village but with the terrain and local inhabitants in between, it might as well have been a million miles. Residents of that area included the Java tiger, herds of wild boars, the Indonesian wild water buffalo, the Komodo dragon, more deadly snakes than one could shake a stick at… well, I often wondered what I was doing out there with no more protection than a few surfboards.

Patagonia surf ambassador, Gerry Lopez, shares a story today about life before single-use plastics. Read on for some rarely seen photos from the early days at G-Land and an opportunity to join the Plastic Pollution Coalition. [Above: With waves like this, who would want to do anything else all day long? Gerry at G-Land, sometime in the late '70s or early '80s. Photo: ©Don King]

In the mid to late 1970s, we were permitted to build a temporary camp with some bamboo tree houses and a shack to cook in. The lack of human presence made the beaches – the only area we frequented – absolutely pristine. We brought our drinking water in glass bottles, the only containers available at that time. We dug latrines out in the jungle and burned all of our garbage. When the coming of the monsoons heralded the end of the surf season, we left.

Éire

by Patrick “Patch” Wilson

Eyeing up a promising looking swell chart and coming to the end of a massive restoration project at work, I jumped at the opportunity to hitch a lift in my friend Lowey’s van and get back out to Eire for some waves again. The swell was looking big and the winds not quite right but I had time on my side and I have found over the years that to get the good days here it’s best not to be in a rush and just to hangout and take the place in.

Editor’s note: Patagonia UK ambassador, Patch Wilson, joins us today with some thoughts about a recent surf trip, and a stack of amazing pictures. Thanks to Patch, Mickey Smith and Tom Lowe for sharing their photos.

Autumn time and the big lows that sweep across the Atlantic throw swell straight at the West coast of Éire along with a lot of weather. In between weather fronts, when the wind is switching around and easing off a little, you can score perfect slabs, points and beaches if you know where to look on the right tide, wind and swell direction. It’s a gamble of: Should we go here and check this slab or here instead and check this point? But when things come together, it’s well worth the waiting and searching.

[Above: Patch Wilson, turquoise bowl. Photo: Mickey Smith frame grab]

Runnin' the Tidal Rapids

by Liz Clark

With a brief window of calm winds, Crystal and I readied Swell to move east among the atolls. With the news of Barry’s passing, I wanted to check out what was rumored to be a new boatyard on an obscure strip of coral a few atolls east, plus with a swell on the way, we might arrive just in time to catch a few juicier waves before Crystal flew home.

Editor's note: Before leaving for Chile, Crystal Thornburg-Homcy visited the South Pacific and fellow Patagonia ambassador Liz Clark who's sailing around the world in her boat, Swell. Here are a few stories from their time together. [Photos courtesy of Liz Clark and Crystal Thornburg] 

Swell caught the flow of the outgoing tidal current as we steered around the coral embankment and into the open draw of the pass. The sun pierced the cloudless morning air, illuminating the deep blue river that carried us out to sea.

Through the binoculars, I could see the sea churning up ahead. “Oh, no…” I bellowed. I knew what we were in for: standing waves and sea-rapids where the flow of the tidal river met the ocean. It was too late to turn around, the outward flow was too strong to fight…I made a firm mental note to get some better tide information!

Body Surf Classic San Francisco and Come Hell or High Water this Weekend in the Bay Area

by Dan Malloy

Danny Hess and his friends at the woodshop are hosting the first annual Body Surf Classic San Francisco at Ocean Beach this Saturday, November 5.

It looks to be more of a gathering than a serious competition so get ready to take your game faces off. The event starts at the crack of nine Saturday morning. Beach entries welcomed.

Below is a sign the guys at the woodshop made me build when I was passing through town last week. It will be present at the competition for anyone who would like to get pitted Mark Cunningham style.

Editor's note: Later Saturday evening, after the contest, there will be a screening of Come Hell or High Water at Proof Lab in Mill Valley. Chris, Keith and Dan Malloy will be in attendance. Those who were lucky enough to score tickets will be able to see the film on Friday night at the Save The Waves Film Festival.

[Video: Get to the Beach! by Alex Kopps]

A Hootfest for the Torpedo People at the La Paloma Theatre

After the world premier in New York, Keith Malloy and crew brought their new body surfing film Come Hell or High Water out to the west coast for a screening at the historic La Paloma Theatre in Encinitas, California. We received two reports from the show. First up is Patagonia Cardiff store manager, Devon Howard.

Keith's film premiere last night of Come Hell or High Water at La Paloma in Encinitas was epic. Nixon did a great job of promoting and putting on the event and after party. We also celebrated Jeff Johnson's birthday. All the Malloys and their family were there, as were the entire Cardiff staff, and surf ambassador Trevor Gordon. Some other great surfers were on hand like Marc Cunningham, Danny Hess, Rob Machado, Taylor Knox, and Kelly Slater. The hoot meter was off the scale. So much fun.
 
There is going to be a big buzz about this film. Keith and the crew made a unique waveriding movie that will be celebrated for many, many years, joining the ranks of hit films that guys like Chris Malloy and Thomas Campbell have done over the years. Congrats Keith. Well done!

–Devon Howard

Next we have writer and traveler Mark Ayling, who offeres his perspective on the evening in combination with a bunch of photos from Drew McGill and Devon Howard. [Above: Director Keith Malloy fields questions on-stage at the La Paloma Theatre. Photo: Drew McGill]

A hushed whisper sweeps across the hundred surfers assembled before the La Paloma theater in Encinitas, California. We all peek to catch a glimpse of Mark Cunningham, the silver headed star of tonight's movie, Come Hell or High Water. Our reverence for this legendary waterman would be nothing unusual, except that Mark rarely touches a surfboard – he's a bodysurfer.

I Hate Surfing and Surfers are Lame

by Brittany Griffith

JT and I are headed to Baja tomorrow to celebrate his 40th birthday. I totally suck at surfing and I’ve had a few close calls so I’m always anxious when we go on a “surf trip.” It seems we never go someplace mellow – Peru, El Salvador, Nexpa. Isn’t that like taking a 5.4 climber up to the base of El Cap, giving her a rack of cams and saying, “off you go, see you on Heart Ledges”?

Below is a memory I have from a past trip to Nexpa.

I hate surfing and surfers are lame. I had just gotten mauled. Again. This time three feet from the shore. The water cruelly sucked me back out and then slammed me into the rocky, thinly foam-covered beach. Shielding my face from the fins of the board with one hand and frantically trying to stand back up with the other, disabled me from repositioning my bikini top. I gained the safety of the sand and panted. Breathing was difficult. A mane of hair webbed across my face and salt water poured from my nose. I pushed away the mess of hair and could see three cool-guy surfers on the porch of their bungalow, staring and snickering. Assholes, I thought. Then I remembered. I yanked my top back into place and stomped off. I tripped over my leash, still attached, and noticed that the right triangle of my bikini was inside out.

“Oh yeah, well, I climb 5.13!” I wanted to shout. I fought back tears instead.

[JT tries to console me, “It’s okay baby, I still think you’re cool. No, no, I don’t think you should take the rental car back to Zihuatanejo.” Photo: Ben Moon]

New Digital Surf Catalog for Fall/Winter 2011

Our new digital surf catalog is up and riding. Lots to click through and enjoy here -- perfect for some weekend inspiration (is that a fresh NW swell on the first day of fall?) or to cushion your Monday morning re-entry at work. Thanks to all the photographers, videographers, ambassadors and Patagonia/FCD employees who made this one possible. And thanks to Raincoast Conservation for all of their efforts in the Great Bear Rainforest.

Launch Patagonia Surf Fall/Winter 2011

Note: With all due respect to the iDevice users out there, this catalog is best viewed on your desktop computer or an Android tablet. Stay tuned for our first foray into iPad catalog design coming soon.

[Photo credits: Jeremy Koreski (top), Andrew Chisholm (bottom left), Jeremy Koreski (bottom center), Gina Sinotte (bottom right)]

Come Hell Or High Water World Tour - A Bodysurfing Film by Keith Malloy

Woodshed Films, Patagonia and Nixon are proud to announce the world tour for Keith Malloy’s debut film project, Come Hell or High Water. The film explores the history and progression of the sport of bodysurfing and the pureness that comes from riding a wave. Shot primary in 16mm, the film takes a unique look at the culture, beauty and simplicity of the sport, capturing the stories and locations of those who belong to this community.

While Keith is most widely known for his time in the water as a surfer, his exploration into the world of bodysurfing began some 10 years ago when he wanted to reconnect with the ocean and did so through bodysurfing. Said Malloy about this project, “It’s about taking a breath and kicking your feet in the big blue sea.”

A sold-out crowd watched the world premiere of Come Hell or High Water last weekend at the New York Film Festival. The film makes its west-coast debut this Friday, September 23, at the La Paloma Theater in Encinitas, California and will continue to crisscross the globe with more stops in Southern, Central and Northern California, North Carolina, London and more. A portion of the proceeds from the tour’s ticket sales will be donated to The Plastic Pollution Coalition, a global alliance aimed at working toward a world free of plastic pollution and its toxic impacts.

Hit the jump to watch the trailer and see the current film tour schedule.

Strawberry Jam

Thanks Colin. The jam was awesome!